Marta Jakubowski: Mood Enhancing Fashion

Polish-born, German-raised, Marta Jakubowski forms part of the new wave of ballsy young designers emerging in the London fashion world. Designers who have to be tough, entrepreneurial and spirited to survive; fortunately, Jakubowski ticks all the boxes.

Jakubowski grew up in Mainz, a town near Frankfurt, where she studied fashion design at a local college. She paid 120 euros a month for her studio flat and could save money and concentrate on her studies. She worked for Bruno Pieters during her placement year in Antwerp and returned to Germany to complete her BA. She decided to move to London to complete her MA at the Royal College of Art in 2014. Reflecting on her first experiences in London she explains: “In London, you have less space, less time and loads of money to pay, so you become really desperate to create something amazing because you have to. In cities like Antwerp, you have more space and time but it’s not always best for your education because you don’t have”. Since graduating she has set up her own label in London, Not Just A Label.

Expression Of The Self

Not just a label is perhaps a reflection of Jakubowski’s intention to pour her mood into the clothes in her line. During her time at the RCA her unconventional use of a mood board, encouraged by her tutor David Kappo, had her exploring the work of performance artists Francesca Woodman and Marina Abramović. Their honest confrontation with the camera was a useful method for Jakubowski who believes in projecting honesty in her designs: “If you’re feeling sad you have to make a sad collection”. Far from creating a depressing monochromatic set, Jakubowski turns minimalism on its head, making what was traditionally serious, exaggerated, fun and empowering.